Chad-o-matic: TotSW: Chaco Culture National Historic Park

We got a little later start than usual on the way out of Santa Fe, due to having been sidetracked by conversations with the denizens of an excellent bike shop in town. As a result, it felt like time for a snack just as soon as we left the populated areas. That could have been a problem, but we miraculously found this next to a gas station: (mmmm...ice cream)

The main goal for the day was to see the amazing pueblo ruins at Chaco Canyon. We were also hoping to find a place to camp -- I had no reservations, as there had been some work being done at the campground during the early part of the summer and they weren't guaranteeing spots. On the bright side, once we wound our way in the back way along a miles-and-miles-and-miles-long washboarded road, we found plenty of available sites in the park campground. I don't have a picture, but this is the only campground I know of where you can see pueblo ruins right from the sites (just off the right of this photo).

You can't see it in the picture, but it was crazily windy. Chad used all available line to tie things down while we watched the tent set by a noisy group of young people nearby blow away. To be fair, they might have been noisy mostly because they were trying to cope with their stuff blowing around, in good cheer at least.

With accommodation for the night settled, we headed over to the main area to take a hike.

Mid-day, it was quite warm. The kid applied shade while waiting for me to get a map.

Shade was so effective at mood improvement that it was sought out at every opportunity.

Not too far down the trail, we started to encounter signs of former multistory stone buildings.

The careful rock stacking used in the construction of these building was notably tidy and well-done. Notice the thick walls, presumably for strength and summer coolness.

As usual, I saw faces everywhere.

These edifices are impressive, and command views of neaby gaps through the cliffs. This area is thought to have been a crossroads for hundreds of years and trade goods from South America have been found among the artifacts here.

We knew there were some structures up on top of the adjacent mesa, so naturally we had to follow the trail. Yes, this is a trail -- see the signpost at the right of the picture?

Note that the small signpost just above my left leg appears to be pointing straight up the cliff,

but it really sent us up a crevice to the right. See, another signpost at the top.

The views from the top were just what you might imagine. Both the landscape and the Great Houses were laid out on a grand scale.

We noticed some interesting markings in the sandstone up top,

and were happy to spot the sign telling us what they were. Fossil shrimp burrows.

Pueblo Bonito was built in stages over a couple of centuries between approximately 800-1100 AD, and is thought to have been at least 4 stories tall, containing 600 rooms and some 40 kivas. Clearly a site of cultural significance. The temporary green and white tents set up near the center were for a native dance event that was to be held later in the weekend.

Easy walking along the top of the mesa

led us to another small complex of buildings.

Different rock-stacking patterns were used during the various building periods. I particularly like the alternating big/small pattern apparent on this wall.

Chad took many, many pictures. Can you tell what the kid was thinking?

Happy Chad.

Snacks always rejuvenate the kid. Particularly meat snacks.

Sometimes it wasn't immediately apparent where the trail went, as the top of the mesa was pretty open.

You could, however, find your way by carefully looking for cairns.

Look closely on the cliff in the center of this picture to see the ancient stairway chipped into the rock above the ledge by the white patch. The park service would frown upon anyone using that route nowadays...

As our route wound a big loop, I employed the mom super-power of holding hands to speed up the tired kid.

Chad must have thought that was cute; there are many pictures of us from this part of the afternoon.

More views to enjoy as the afternoon light waned and the shadows got longer.

After we looped around the top, we got to climb down the same fun way we came up.

I gave the kid a hug and then said kid hightailed it back to the car. Are we done yet? Six miles was thought to be enough.

However, the light was still good,

so Chad and I wandered around yet one more great house down near the parking lot.

I am impressed at how well my phone camera does, even after being pulled out of a dirty pocket and aimed straight at the sun.

Normally at this point, we would just head back to camp, eat, and go to bed. Not today, though, as I had noticed a couple of interesting evening ranger programs on the calendar when I ran through the Visitor's Center.

Chaco Canyon is designated as one of the International Dark Sky Parks, where there is almost no light pollution to diminish the stargazing experience. On summer weeknights, they open up the telescope in their little observatory, as well as setting up several more telescopes outside so that people could look at cool things like Saturn's moons, variously shaped nebulae, and the like. Given that we were there at the summer solstice, darkness arrived late.

Fortunately they had another program to keep people occupied -- a talk about the discovery of Pre-Columbian chocolate residues in cylindrical pottery jars at the site here. And the best part -- the talk was accompanied by a demonstration of grinding the beans over a heated metate, as well as tastings of the nibs, juice from the fruit pulp, and of course a couple of recipes of sipping chocolate. Yummmm. Chad and I especially liked their spicy imagining of a pre-Columbian recipe. (yes, we ran back to camp to eat a rushed dinner before the talk and chocolate consumption!) After the chocolate fun, it was fully dark, and we stayed up until quite late looking through the telescopes.

So late, in fact, that getting up at 4 am to get in line to ensure a spot for the 5:56 am summer solstice viewing of the light beam shining into the Casa Rinconada kiva didn't seem feasible. That's the sort of thing I'd like to do in a more obscure location; cramming in with the 100 people they let in after sitting in line in the wee hours of the morning just seemed wrong.

The next morning, we went over to the visitor center to buy a postcard, and of course had to run through yet another structure.